Ghent, Medieval Pearl of Europe

Castle of the Counts - Ghent

Ghent is possessed by a rich, colorful culture whose roots run deep through the foundations of the city. Ghent is beautiful. It oozes history from every pore. Beyond the beautiful medieval facades lie constant surprises. Delicious food, art, technology, fashion, music, museums, great shops, parks, sports, dancing, guilds, theater, opera, bars with hundreds of kinds of beer, and even a red-light district await within an easy-to-walk, compact city center that is also stress-free to navigate with public transport.

Ghentians (Gentenaars in Flemish), called themselves The Nooses (Stroppen in Flemish) and Ghent being the city of rebellion is perhaps best explained in that nickname. In 1537, the infamously unruly inhabitants defied their ruler, the Emperor Charles V who needed funding for the war against France, by refusing to pay the imposed taxes. There was an audacious revolt prompting Charles to show up in person, and backed by a large army, punish his birthplace. The penalty was brutal. The St. Bavo Abbey was demolished and replaced with a Spanish prison. The city lost its privileges and was heavily fined.

There was also a toll in persecution. Barefoot and dressed in cassock, a great number of the population were made to get on their knees before the Emperor and beg for mercy. Twenty-five leaders of the rebellion were beheaded. Fifty others were forced to go through the city dressed in a shirt and with a noose tied around their neck to show they’d earned the gallows. The event is honored annually in a moving reenactment at the Ghent Festival.

In addition to its historic value, Ghent has a lively university culture and a diverse expat community. This benefits visitors two-fold: there’s a thriving nightlife with unique bars and music locales, as well as a foodie atmosphere with restaurants representing a diverse mix of Belgian and world cuisines, all housed in centuries-old neighborhoods.

As mentioned earlier, looking beyond the facades, you can find things to see and do that are pretty unique e.g. if the ancient skill of crossbow shooting is something of interest, contact the in 1821 established St Rochus Guild. Expressing an interest may get you in for a peek.

Or do you love puppets? Puppet-theater was a favorite pastime in proletarian neighborhoods at the start of the twentieth century, and to this day, Ghent remains a mecca. Easily the most famous Ghent native is a puppet called Pedrolino, who performs in the native dialect and is a beloved figure in the life of local children.

There is live music of just about any genre, any night of the week, and the yearly Ghent Jazz Festival attracts big names. There are also lots of electronic dance music events.

Belgium and cycling are practically synonymous. There is an annual cycling event in the Ghent velodrome ‘t Kuipke, called “The 6 Days of Ghent” which draws many cycling stars for competitive races in an electrifying atmosphere. As highly charged sporting events go, the 6-Days is a must see!

If it’s floral art and gardens, you love, planning a visit around the Floralies is ideal. It is one of the most prestigious flower and plant art shows contests in the world and happens every five years. An exciting change for next year’s edition: rather than an indoor affair, four unique locations in the cities’ art district will be the backdrop for the flower festival!

Catch the spirit in this epic new documentary called Ghent in Motion:

Nobody does a better job of giving insight into the Ghent culture and spirit than the Belgium Beer Tourism website. They offer tons of tips for where to experience the city like a real Noose. And here is a site featuring entertainment tips by the locals

The following are my recommendations for a truly authentic experience:

NOT-TO-MISS HISTORY
THE CASTLE OF THE COUNTS
PATERSHOL
GRASLEI & KORENLEI
VRIJDAGSMARKT
THE BELFRY with MAMMELOKKER
ST BAAFS CATHEDRAL

COOL BARS
Unfortunately the Brown Café culture is slowly disappearing, but there are a number of them left in Ghent, and they are worth your time! Among them: ‘t DREUPELKOT, BIERHUIS AAN DE WATERKANT, TROLLEKELDER, DE DULLE GRIET. Another, the oldest cafe in Ghent Cafe Den Turk features live jazz and blues gigs.

JIGGER’S is a real speakeasy, no kidding! Ring the doorbell for entry. The bartenders create cocktail recipes with local ingredients. The bar, and concept is gaining notoriety around the globe! Come early.

EATING
Ribs at AMADEUS
At MAX, enjoy waffles baked on the original waffle irons, by 5th generation of the inventor of the Brussels waffle, also known as the Belgian waffle. (Expensive but excellent local fare, waffles and crepes after 2pm until dinner time.)
Local fare in a medieval setting at CHEZ LEONTIEN
Miscellaneous WORLD and LOCAL CUISINE in PATERSHOL AND OUDBURG
For fantastic sushi, sandwiches and homemade ready dinners to pop in the microwave, SLAGERIJ AULA has fair prices for a great meal with high quality ingredients.
GREAT BUTCHERS HALL (Groot Vleeshuis), a sampling of local products on the menu or available for purchase.
On a budget, a student and travel blogger favorite: THE SOUP LOUNGE
As 19th century bakeries go, BAKERIJ HIMSCHOOT is an absolute must!!

COFFEE
There’s a Starbucks. Blah. Get your blueberry muffin if you must, but for a good cup of coffee, walk right by it into the narrow Donkersteeg and visit the Ghent staple coffee bar Mokabon. The place is an art-deco gem and it won’t break the bank.

Many emotions come to mind when I’m asked about my birth city. But I can’t express them. The heart of Ghent is the first place where I found independence. Its folklore and spirit is colored into my genetic make-up. I love this place. I’m biased.

I can only encourage you to discover its charm. Ghent is a most worthy Bucket List item. You will not regret a visit and choosing a travel date around one of the local cultural events, would make for an even more exceptional experience.

Sincerely,
PostExpat

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